Italy for me From Italy with love
For the past seven years, my friends and I have been visiting Western Sicily with enviable regularity — about 3-4 times a year on average. We treat this place as our own vacation home, and that’s how you should approach this adventure. No luxury, just good food, great people, and 100% downshifting.
My guide and itineraries are perfect for experienced independent travelers who want to understand and feel the atmosphere of Italy’s most famous island. You can only get around here by renting a car.
In the western part of the island, you should stay in the countryside to truly experience the local flavor. This is a very minimalist and almost Spartan experience, far from civilization, and you have to want that kind of escape.
Usually, our trips last from 3 days to a week. In July 2017, we spent 3 weeks in this part of Sicily and were still delighted.
It so happens that there’s always at least one newcomer in our group who we have to show around and explain everything to again. However, we only enjoy this more.
This guide is your starting point, your base, and of course, you can either follow it 100% or supplement it with your own routes.
So, let’s go — or rather, let’s fly!
When to fly: any month except August.
In June, July, September, and up until mid-October, you can swim in the sea. We also love coming here in November or February when we’re practically the only tourists on the island.
Say yes to these three questions:
- Do you have experience traveling independently or really want to gain that experience?
- Is this not your first time in Italy?
- Are you ready to rent a car?
Page Contents
Weekly Expenses for Two
Expenses for two people for a week range from €750 to €1,300. Of course, it can be cheaper or much more expensive, but I would plan on this range. In reality, there’s not much to spend money on in this part of Sicily, and there’s no real need to.
Your main expenses will be for:
- Flight from Rome to Trapani: €50 one-way per person. You can also fly from Moscow, Kyiv, or St. Petersburg to Palermo for €100. Palermo is 100 km (62 miles) from Trapani, accessible by a good highway.
- Accommodation: €250-400
- Car rental: €100-250
- Food: €200-400
- Miscellaneous: €100
Let’s look at each expense in more detail.
Flights – How to Get There?
Our destination is the city of Trapani, the westernmost point of Sicily. Tourism is still underdeveloped here, and that’s the best part.
Currently, the only flights from Rome to Trapani are by www.ita-airways.com.
There are also many low-cost flights with Ryanair.com from other cities in Italy, as well as from Lithuania, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Malta, the Netherlands, Poland, Slovakia, and Spain.
You can combine a trip to Sicily with a visit to Rome or Milan.
Where to Stay?
We usually rent a villa for 3-5 people for €80 per day, but it’s easy to find accommodation for two people for €35-50 per day. We live 10 km (6 miles) from Trapani, in the direction of Salinagrande and the town of Marausa. If you want to be within walking distance of the beach, book one of these options:
- Villa Posidonie – perfect for two couples or a group of 4-5 people.
- Borgo Pida
- Zefiro
There’s a nearby NATO base, and sometimes you can watch fighter jet training displays.
Car Rental
To get to the supermarket, bar, port, and attractions, you’ll definitely need a car. I recommend booking a car in advance — it’s much cheaper, faster, and safer than renting at the airport. It’s also beneficial to return the vehicle to the same location where you picked it up.
Read more about car rental in Italy at italy4.me/road-trips/.
Any small car will suit you, which you can rent for as little as €25-35 per day.
Food
Our main goal is food, not the beach. After enjoying local croissants, cannoli, pasta, seafood, and gelato, even the food in Rome starts to seem lacking.
Read more about Sicilian desserts.
A 10-Day Vacation Plan (Thoroughly Tested)
Here’s a 10-day vacation plan that my friends and I have repeated many times.
Day 1: Acclimatization
On the day of arrival, there’s no need to rush anywhere. After landing, we head straight to Bar Tiffany for two cappuccinos with cornetto and other treats. We check in, rest, and head to the supermarket to stock up on wine and provisions. In the evening, we go for mussel soup (Zuppa di Cozze) at a specialized mussel restaurant, La Piazzetta.
A great discovery — Malibu Bar, where we visit at least twice a day.
Day 2: Erice
After breakfast at our favorite Bar Tiffany, we head to explore the “city in the clouds.” The medieval and very beautiful town of Erice is located on a mountain and can be seen from almost anywhere. It also offers panoramic views. We head home for lunch, drink wine with cheese and prosciutto, hit the beach, and have dinner.
Check out how magical it can be in the off-season.
Day 3: Favignana Island
Spend the first half of the day visiting Favignana Island. We head to the port, buy ferry tickets, and 50 minutes later we’re on the island, renting bikes and exploring the bays. We take the 14:40 ferry back. By 16:00, we’re home for lunch.
Bike rentals cost €5 per day, or € you can rent an e-bike for € 10. In August, rental prices are three times higher.
Here’s a guide on how to get to Favignana.
Day 4: Trapani
Breakfast, beach, lunch. In the afternoon, we stroll through the historic center of Trapani. We grab takeaway pizza and head to the pier, where the Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean seas meet, to watch the sunset.
Day 5: San Vito lo Capo
San Vito lo Capo Beach is one of the most beautiful in Sicily and in all of Italy. It’s only 50 km (31 miles) and a 1-hour drive from Marausa.
Alternatively, you can dedicate the fifth day to doing nothing—just eating, drinking, relaxing on the beach, or taking a short trip somewhere nearby.
Another option is to visit the town of Corleone, the “birthplace” of the Italian mafia.
Read more about choosing a hotel in San Vito lo Capo for a beach holiday.
Day 6: Zingaro Nature Reserve
The Zingaro Nature Reserve (Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro) is 60 km (37 miles) from Marausa, and the drive takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
In the video below, I show what one of the first coves along the trail in the reserve looks like. The video is available in 360-degree format for Chrome browsers — you can drag the mouse to explore:
Day 7: Segesta
In the morning, visit the unique ancient statue of Giovane di Mozia (Youth of Motya) — only 25 km (15.5 miles) from Trapani. The statue dates back to the 5th century BC, nearly 300 years older than the Venus de Milo. I first saw it in November 2019 and was so moved that I cried. Amazingly, there were only two visitors in the museum — my friend and me!
In the afternoon, head to Segesta. The ruins of the ancient city of Segesta feature a well-preserved Greek theater and temple, both built in the 5th century BC. The drive from Marausa to Segesta takes just 30 minutes.
Day 8: Sicilian Village Museum
You can visit the Sicilian Village Museum in Grotta Mangiapane. This site was once inhabited by cave dwellers, and around 1800, a small village of four families formed near the cave, which lived by subsistence farming until World War II. After the war, most of the residents left, leaving only one family. Over time, the village was abandoned. But in 1982, a group of enthusiasts decided to restore the village and turn it into an open-air museum.
Watch this video to get an idea of what to expect:
Day 9: Mazara del Vallo
I recommend visiting Mazara del Vallo to see the unique statue of the Dancing Satyr (Satiro Danzante), dating back to the 4th century BC.
The statue was found in 1998 off the coast of Sicily, restored in Rome, and is now on public display. It made a strong impression on me. After visiting the Satyr Museum, check out the Jesuit College (Collegio dei Gesuiti) nearby. It has a beautiful courtyard and often hosts free but interesting exhibitions.
Day 10: Relax and Prepare for Departure
On the last day of your trip, I recommend having breakfast at your favorite bar, packing your bags, and returning your car to the airport.
October Vacation – A 12-Day Plan
Last October, my friends Vasily and Ksenia finally made it to Sicily. On October 9th, they flew into Palermo, picked up their rental car at the airport, and headed straight to Mario’s villa.
The car rental cost them €300 for 12 days.
Day 1 (October 10)
I flew in the next day from Rome to Trapani to give them a little introduction.
Of course, we headed straight to a bar for lunch and then to the supermarket to stock up on local delicacies.
We went to the villa and then to the sea for a swim, naturally bringing along a bottle of local beer. It was windy but warm. Apart from us, the only ones enjoying the beach were windsurfers.
In the evening, we had mussels and swordfish at La Piazzetta.
The evening was so good that when we got home, we had to open another bottle of our favorite Sicilian wine, Donna Fugata, before bed.
Day 2 (October 11)
After breakfast at Malibu, we headed to Erice for a stroll.
We stopped for lunch in Malibu, then returned home and went for another swim.
In the evening, we had another lovely dinner on the terrace.
Day 3 (October 12)
After breakfast at Malibu, we headed to Favignana Island. We rented e-bikes and explored the island’s bays. On October 12th, the water was still warm, and we swam at several beaches.
We hardly encountered any other tourists. The whole island and its beauty seemed to be just for us.
We returned to the port of Trapani by lunchtime and decided to visit the bar with the best cannoli on the island. Bar Erice is in a godforsaken place and very hard to find without a GPS, but the locals all know it. Save this address: Via Milano, 295, 91016 Napola TP.
Read more about this bar in this article in English.
The guys, especially Ksenia, were delighted with the size and taste of the cannoli. We paid €9.60 for three cannoli and three coffees, so lunch was sorted.
That evening, nothing new happened — we jogged along the sea, swam, and had dinner at home on the terrace, watching the sunset.
Day 4 (October 13)
My short visit came to an end, and it was time for me to return to Rome, while the guys continued exploring Sicily on their own. I’ll hand over the story to them:
After saying goodbye to Artur, we headed to Castellammare del Golfo. It’s a town with narrow streets on a slope, and driving was challenging. The town’s promenade is divided into two parts, and you can rent a yacht there.
We checked into the Affittacamere le scale apartments on one of those narrow streets with laundry hanging on lines. The top floor had a wonderful terrace with a sea view. We walked around the town and decided to look at it from above. To the west of the town, there’s a viewpoint. We drove further to the viewpoint of the Faraglioni di Scopello sea cliffs.
We returned to the town and had dinner at the Sailing restaurant (the bread is divine). Address: Via Fiume, 4, 91014 Castellammare del Golfo TP.
Day 5 (October 14)
We had breakfast with the local grandpas at Millenium Cafe. Don’t expect top-notch service or attention — just grab your food and enjoy.
Next, we headed to the most beautiful beach, San Vito lo Capo. We had lunch in the same town at Morsi e Sorsi on Via Savoia, 85. Reasonable prices and open all day.
Then we went to the Zingaro Nature Reserve. The entrance fee is €5 per person. We stopped at the first cove, Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo, where Vasya got stung by a jellyfish, so be careful. After 5 p.m., there was no sun in the cove, so we headed home. On the way, we stopped for coffee in Castelluzzo at Bar Gelateria A.Giara.
We stopped by Conad for local goodies and spent the evening on the terrace.
Day 6 (October 15)
After breakfast at Millenium Cafe, we headed to the town of Sciacca.
On the way, we visited Segesta. First, you leave your car in the parking lot and pay €5 for two people to take a shuttle to the temple. There, you pay another €12 for two to get up close to the temple. You can also pay extra to see the ancient theater. The place was full of seniors.
In Sciacca, we checked into Perriera House apartments, where the friendly hostess recommended the cafe In Pausa on the same street. The pasta was delicious, and the portions were huge.
It’s a strange town divided into two parts — the lower level is a fishing village, while the upper level is for the wealthy, with temples and palaces. There’s no real promenade, but there’s a beautiful view of the town from the pier.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have good weather, so we didn’t try out the beaches.
Day 7 (October 16)
In the morning, we had breakfast at one of the bars on our street, then headed to the Scala dei Turchi for a photoshoot.
Next, we visited the archaeological site of Eraclea Minoa. Entrance fee: €8 for two people. It’s a lovely park with beautiful views.
Days 8 and 9 (October 17 and 18)
We decided to return to San Vito lo Capo for some beach time. We spent two days relaxing there. We stayed at A’Cavalera, a hotel with beautiful decor and delicious breakfasts.
We had lunch at Tarattoria du Lantirneri.
For dinner, we went to Pizzeria El Sombrero, which served delicious Margherita pizza.
You should know that this is a super touristy town, and the food reflects that.
Day 10 (October 19)
We decided to return to our village. We stayed at Zu’Mikele Apartments, across from Malibu Cafe.
Beach time, prosciutto, mozzarella, and ricotta.
In the evening, we went for a walk in Trapani.
Day 11 (October 20)
Breakfast at Malibu.
We visited the Grotta Mangiapane village museum in Custonaci.
Lunch in Trapani at Sorsi i Morsi is highly recommended.
Dinner at La Piazzetta.
Day 12 (October 21)
Breakfast at Malibu.
Beach time.
Departure for the Palermo airport.
Ksenia and Vasily spent 12 days in Sicily. They loved the western part of the island so much that they decided not to visit Siracusa and Catania, as they had originally planned.